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Car Value Scout App Masterclass: Full 20-Minute Tutorial

Published by CarValueScout • 2025-12-14 • South Carolina

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This video walks you through every feature of the Car Value Scout application, from VIN decoding to generating your final negotiation report.

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Mastering the Car Value Scout App: A Step-by-Step Guide for Buyers

Welcome to the deep-dive training for the **Car Value Scout application**. This 20-minute masterclass is designed to turn you into a professional appraiser, capable of calculating the true value of any used car. We believe buyers in South Carolina and nationwide deserve transparency, especially against the industry's inflated prices.

1. The VIN and Valuation Foundation

The appraisal starts simply by entering the 17-digit VIN (Vehicle Identification Number), typically found on the driver’s side windshield. The app automatically populates the year, make, model, and trim (like the 2010 Subaru Forester shown). By adding the car’s mileage and your **zip code** (e.g., 29643), the app grounds the estimated market value in local data.

The transcript notes that the mileage and condition significantly drive the price—a low-mileage 2010 model can be rare and valuable, demonstrating that market value is highly sensitive to these two factors.

2. The OBD2 Diagnostic Engine: From Code to Cash

The most powerful feature is the ability to integrate mechanical issues into the valuation. If the Check Engine Light is on, you can get a free code reading from parts stores like AutoZone or O'Reilly's. The app handles the rest:

  • **Code Translation:** A code like **P0171 (System Too Lean)** is instantly decoded, with the app calculating the repair cost ($\approx \$ 440$).
  • **Cost Calculation:** The app estimates the part cost ($\approx \$ 300$) and the labor hours ($\approx 1.8$ hours by a mechanic) based on a mechanic's manual.
  • **Parts Sourcing:** The app links directly to **eBay and Amazon** for the exact part number (Mass Airflow Sensor for the 2010 Subaru Forester) and links to YouTube videos for DIY repair guidance, a very cool feature.
  • **The Dealbreaker:** If the OBD2 code points to a major issue like a transmission fault, the transcript notes you should walk away, as it could cost **\$3,000 to \$5,000** to replace.

3. The 50-Point Visual Inspection and Deduction

The app guides you through a detailed visual walkaround to document physical flaws that reduce value. This checklist turns subjective problems into quantifiable repair costs.

  • **Exterior Damage:** Damages like a chipped windshield, bald tires, or a dented bumper are checked off, with the app referencing a **nationwide used parts database** to calculate replacement value.
  • **Interior Defects:** Issues like a torn driver's seat, sagging headliner, or cracked dashboard are documented. These cosmetic deductions provide valuable negotiation room.
  • **Mechanical Clues:** The list reminds you to check for specific noises (CV joint grinding, brake squeal) and leaks (water pump, oil pan gasket). The seller saying a non-working AC "just needs a charge" is a warning sign; the app provides the full compressor replacement cost.

4. The Negotiation Report (The Written Data)

The final step is generating the **PDF Report**, which is your most powerful tool in the negotiation.

  • **The Bottom Line:** The report takes the estimated market value and deducts the total repair cost (visual and OBD2) to calculate the **As-Is Price**.
  • **Leverage:** The PDF, listing each part cost (e.g., O2 sensor at $\mathbf{\$ 230}$) and labor hour, is "hard to argue with" and forces the seller to drop the price. You can demand they fix the repairs or accept your lower, data-backed offer.
  • **History Report Value:** The transcript emphasizes that the low-cost **VIN history report** ($\mathbf{\$ 15.99}$ vs. Carfax's $\mathbf{\$ 44.99}$) is essential to start the process, offering the same detail as competitors.

5. The Truth About Market Pricing (The Seller Perspective)

The masterclass also touches upon why many sellers overprice their cars. This is often due to relying on inflated sources like Kelley Blue Book, which has an association with Cox Automotive (owner of Manheim Auctions and financing firms for car lots), creating a systemic incentive to keep prices high. CVS provides the more realistic, data-backed **private party value** that truly moves vehicles.

This application is designed to give **you, the buyer, the edge**.

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📝 Full Video Transcript

Okay. Let's start the video. This is a brief tutorial, or an in-depth tutorial I should say, on how to use the Car Value Scout application. We're going to start with the VIN feature first, and if you have the VIN number, it's usually located on the left-hand corner of the windshield. If you go on the outside of the car on the driver's side and look in that corner, you should see the VIN number on a plate. It's a 17-digit number. I'm going to paste one in here, so you can see it. So there it goes. Now, if you have the V I N number, you don't have to put in the year, make, model, or trim. It will do that automatically. What we do have to put in is the mileage. So, let's make believe we have 125,000 miles on this car and we're going to use a zip code of 29643. We looked at the car and the car is clean and we ran our OBD2 code reader and we found a code of P zero 171.. Now, if you don't have a code reader, you can get these codes from AutoZone, O'Reilly, or Advanced Auto Parts. They will read the codes for you for free. You can literally go into or take your test drive to an auto parts store. And,, if the seller doesn't want you to do that, that's a red flag. You need to walk away. The next thing we're going to do is we're going to get into the, visual inspection, what I call the visual walk-around. This is really cool because what it does is, it gives you an option to walk around the vehicle and check things you wouldn't ordinarily check and, I'll go through it slowly. First , we have the tires and wheels. Let's just say the front left tire was bald, okay? And the front right tire was bald. We would check those off. The rear left tire looked good. The right rear tire looked good. The hubcaps or wheels were fine. CV joint noise, you drove the car and you heard this noise in the front end when you made a turn, okay? You'll hear a grinding noise in the front end upon turning either left or right. That could be a CV joint noise. So if you had that, you would check that. Now we go around the car and we look at all the glass and we see that the windshield had a chip in it or a crack, so we check that. The rear window looks fine. The driver's side mirror is fine. The passenger side mirror is fine, and any side or back window for that matter, if it has a rear one. And now we check the next section, which is the exterior panels and body. Let's say the front bumper had some damage to it. We could check that, or the rear bumper, or the hood had a dent or a scratch in it, the passenger door, et cetera. You see the list. The idea behind this is to pick out anything that you see and add it to the list. Now, this'll give you a rough idea of what it would cost to get that particular area fixed. It's not exact. What it does is, it pulls down the labor rate from your zip code or your state and it puts that labor rate in based on a shop manual that tells the correct labor hours,,, for example,,, how long it takes to hang a rear bumper or to replace a front bumper. And if you check that off, it'll estimate the rough cost or value of, for example, ,,a front, bumper, if you had to replace it. And, it's based on a nationwide used parts database. So that's how that works.. Now, if you go down the list to lighting, you're now walking around the vehicle again and you look, oh, jeez, you know, the front headlight doesn't work, or the taillight's smashed in, let's just say, or the passenger side fog lights, they're both broke. Stuff like that. Maybe the front grille has damage, it's missing or something. You can check those off. Now, if you look under the hood, and I'm going to teach you through videos on this website of what to look for. But, let's say that you saw a water pump leak or what you thought would be a water pump leak, I'm going to give you a brief way to look for that. You would look under the car after it's been running to reach operating temp then turned off. You would see dripping coming down from roughly where the belts are connected to the motor. by the alternator belt. There's also a water pump belt there, and right behind those belts is the water pump. When a water pump goes bad, it will start to drip right there. So, if you saw dripping or a puddle under the car, right under where the belt is that drives the alternator, that drives the engine stuff, okay, to make it clear... I'll have a video exactly what to look for, but just to give you an idea, you would check this for a water pump leak. Now, alternator. The alternator is a charging device that charges your battery. If the person tells you that the battery doesn't seem to hold a charge, I would check this just to make sure that if you have to buy an alternator, you can do it. Oil leak. Look under the car, see if there's oil leaks, What’s a minor oil leak, it means that maybe, the oil pan gasket needs replacing. If the air conditioning's not working, check the air compressor. Check that off …because that is going to need, , , typically replacement. If the seller said it just needs a charge, I would not believe him. I would definitely check the AC compressor ' cause if it just needed a charge, he would do it himself. Once again, the brakes and the rotors, if you drive the car and you feel like it's not stopping like it should, I would check the brakes. Now, once again, to check them-... accurately, you would have to pull the wheel off and actually look at them, and you would have a mechanic look at that. If they're squealing, when you hit the brakes, you hear it squeal, typically that means that the brakes are probably worn down. So, you might want to check off that as well. The belt and hose damage. Look at your belts. Look at your hoses. If a hose has a hole in it, it's got a little leak in it or whatever, you know, if there's rust around the clamps on the hoses for the cooling of the engine, check that off. Interior. We go to the interior; we might see a torn driver seat. That's very typical if the car is old. So, you might want to check that., passenger seat, same thing, if it's got a rip in it. , headliner. Check out the headliner. A lot of times the headliners will sag. If You don't look up, you don't see it. Good thing to check. Cracked dashboard, usually means it's been sitting out in the sun, it dried out, and it's cracking, and that could be expensive. Check it off- you can negotiate that as well. Once again, you don't have to say, "Hey, you gotta buy me a dashboard." But you have negotiation room. Interior trim. Okay. Look at your door, , covers on the inside, the panels. Make sure they're all there. Make sure the lights are all there in them. Make sure the door handles are in and stuff like that. , we do have an option for broken door handle. If it doesn't open the door, it's a broken door handle. And you might want to check that cause that's a negotiating thing. Power window failure. If, if he says, "Oh, the, the, you know, power window on the back seat doesn't work." Then you check that. That's a feature needs to be fixed. And then odor or stain, you smell it in there. You're like, "Oh, yuck. This thing stinks." Once again, rust and corrosion. If I see rust or corrosion on the bottom of a vehicle, I would walk away only because there's a possibility it was in a flood, or in some salt water somewhere. , your muffler or your exhaust. If it's making loud noises, you can hear the engine roaring, I would check the exhaust and the muffler. Wheel alignment needed. When you drive the car, if you let go of the wheel on the highway just for a second or feel the wheel pulling to the left or right, it needs a wheel alignment. So you would check that and you would put that on there. suspension noise, once again, noise, shock issue or something like that. You could hear, the shock actually make a snap when it breaks, and you will feel a hard ride if it's got a broken shock. It'll ride rough. So you want to check all of that stuff. Now we can go in here and check the value and generate the report right now. And just so you know, I have a lot of things checked off, but this is just a demo, so I just want you to know that, that, you know, that's what we're doing. I can close this window up. By the way, when you close it up, they still stay checked. Now you check and you, go out and get your report and it's going to work. It's going out there and it's pulling down all the information we put in there. And notice, it put in there a 2010 Subaru Forester and it tells us it's a 2.5X four door, all-wheel drive automatic. All that information is there because of this V I N number. So now if you didn't have the V I N number, you would have to put in 2010, Subaru, Forester. You don't have to fill in, , the trim field, that's optional, but you still have to put in the mileage and the zip code. That gives you an accurate reading that way. So now we got the report and the valuation summary, the estimated market value of this car is $3,528. It's got a price range of 3175 to 3881. That's, giving you the price people are selling these vehicles on marketplace, next door, or on Autotrader. That's the range you might see. So there's literally about a 400 to, $300 range both ways. Now the total repair cost, we checked a lot of stuff off. The total repair cost here is estimated at two thousand five hundred and thirty four dollars. Now that's unusual and it says needs work. We wouldn't buy this car. The as is price or value is nine hundred ninety four dollars. And what it does is it takes this price over here, it takes this repair cost here, and it deducts it from this to come up with this nine hundred ninety four dollars. Now here's the cool stuff. The OBD2 diagnostics. The P0171 is a system two lean bank one, that's about a four hundred and forty dollar repair. Now what it says is, it's based on a mass airflow sensor, And another part that is roughly 300 bucks. The labor rate to put it in is 1.8 hours by a mechanic. So that's how it comes up with this cost. Now if you wanted to buy that part yourself and do the work yourself, let's just say you went to eBay, for example. It's going to pull up the eBay list on that part, the mass airflow sensor for that particular car, and you'll see the cost of the part, and it's kind of cool because it actually gives you the actual part number and you can match it up with the correct year, make and model, but it also, gives you a deep search. See,, that's the one for that particular car. I think that's really cool that, that works that way. Now just so you know, and we're going to push that out of the way and we're going to check on Amazon cause once again, if you clicked Amazon, it would also come up with the same part for that particular car. This is a 2010 Subaru. as you can see, the 2010 Subaru, it comes up with the car itself, the part, the cost of the part, and you can buy it right there. And if you want, you can do the work yourself. I'm going to close this window out. And now what's cool here is if you go to my YouTube section, it's going to pull up that particular car, 2010 Subaru.... it's going to give you a video on how to change that part, exactly where it is and how to do it yourself.So, if you wanted to save some money and you were handy and you had tools, you could replace this yourself. It's not that difficult. Some jobs are more difficult, but this will give you an idea. And if you bring it to a mechanic, you'll know how much work it is. I suggest you watch the six-minute video and see how much work it is, 'cause they may wanna charge you two hundred or three hundred dollars labor, and that's not worth it. So that's a very cool feature of this as well. We're going to pull this off to the side and get rid of it, and I'm going to show you the next feature here. So that's that. Now once again, the visual inspection details, all these parts are based on used parts. on eBay, you could find a windshield for one hundred seventy five dollars, you could find a front bumper for two hundred and fifty dollars, and so on and so forth. And this is figuring a little bit of labor. Now we checked a bunch of stuff, so if this car had this much work, you wouldn't buy it. But I just want to give you the rundown on how this works. So once again, you click on eBay, and we're looking for that front bumper for that particular car. And if you pull it up, okay, there it is. There's the front bumper. All this stuff shows up. It's so cool. There it is, front bumper, Subaru right there. So, and there's the car, the make. It gives you the highlight, the cost, all that is there. Now mind you, you still have to have it painted and stuff. So let's click away from that. And same thing with Amazon, by the way. This gives you a rundown of the parts, adds it all up for you, and takes it off. This is even cooler. Look at this. You click the Download the PDF. It generates a PDF, pops it onto your computer. I'll open it up for you, and there it is. There is the vehicle, a 2010 Subaru Forester. There's the VIN number, the mileage we keyed in, and the clean. There's the private party and the as-is price. And now here's a list of all the things we found that were wrong with that particular vehicle. You could print this out and show it to the person selling the vehicle. Now mind you, this had a ton of stuff 'cause I wanted to show you what you had for options there. Ordinarily, you would find maybe two, three or more things on here, but you're going to save hundreds of dollars, period. And I mean, literally, if that OBD-II code was a transmission, you'd walk away, 'cause you're looking at $3,000 to $5,000 to have a transmission replaced on a car. So this is how it's going to save you tons of money, but very cool feature. Definitely worth it. This is the way to go as far as I'm concerned with all of this stuff, let's click out of here. And now I want to show you something and it's very cool. We'll go back to the home page, CarValueScout, okay, and I want to show you... Well, I can't do it on this one, 'cause this is a demo. But what I could do, is I could log into my account, and I want to show you how this works. And now we go to View My Reports. If I click on View My Reports, this is a VIN history report on a car that I looked at, and this is a car evaluation report. Now there's the 2010 Subaru. This is so cool. We downloaded that PDF when we looked at it, but we also have an HTML version of it. And look at this.... And, this is another one that I did, by the way, a different, , test, just so you know. I did a more realistic one, 'cause total repairs were seven hundred and ninety five dollars in this one. The car was valued out at eight- eight thousand eight hundred dollars, and then once again, it had all of these parts and so forth. And it says it's a good buy at, at, , eight thousand dollars. This was a very good buy. And I believe the mileage, , yeah, this one here, the mileage, it only had 20 miles on it. They'll want to see what it did. It drove the price way up. Now, 20 miles on a 2010 is rare, but let's say somebody bought a new car then died and the car stayed in their garage till a family member got it…. That's why you would get that price. But anyway, it does show you here that the mileage affects the price, obviously, okay, and the condition, outstanding, affects the price. And then once again, you have the value range. all this info is here, it's so awesome, it just... -you can't miss with this program. It really does give you the power to negotiate. And like I said, if you take this PDF report and you pop it open, you have something you could show the buyer this is what you want to offer them. Total repair cost, seven hundred and ninety five dollars. They might have been asking ten thousand or eleven thousand dollars for this vehicle, and you could tell them, "Hey, it's only worth eight thousand dollars, and that's what I'll offer you." Now they may not go for that. I know that. But the advantage to this is, is that even if they don't go for it, they will drop the price. You will save money, and it's hard arguing with written data, data that shows them the headlight cost, the, radiator leak, to replace the radiator, stuff like that. So this O2 sensor, two hundred and thirty dollars. All that stuff, they can't argue with that, you see? Or you tell 'em, "Look, you fix all that and I'll give you your price." You see, they won't do it or they would have done it. This is so powerful, and I've designed it to give you, the buyer, the edge. So, there it is. We can go back to the home page, and then, you know, once again, I have this for sellers as well, so a seller can figure out what their car is worth selling for. So many people advertise their car for too much money. They think that their car is worth, , eleven thousand dollars when it's really worth eight thousand dollars. And they wonder why when they posted it... 'Cause let's say they went to Kelley Blue Book and they typed in all about their car in Kelley Blue Book and it tells them it's worth eleven thousand dollarsSo they put it on, Facebook Marketplace for eleven thousand dollars and they notice that nobody's selling the same car in there for that much money. , well, you know, mine must be better. What happens is that car does not sell because that price is inflated. After hours of research I found in my opinion that Kelley Blue Book, is, , it's- it's not owned by Cox Automotive,, but Cox Automotive is the parent company for Kelley Blue Book. And this is important to know because Kelley Blue Book, , , , I should say Cox Automotive, owns Manheim Motors, the largest, - I believe - auction house - in the US, and they also own a financing firm that finances car lots. Literally 40,000 or so car lots. So, they want to keep those prices higher than usual because they can get the car lots financing all their vehicles that they buy, and they make money on the financing, of course. So, just understand that Kelley Blue Book is an inflated price. You don't have to believe me. Go on the blogs and ask people, "How accurate is Kelley Blue Book?" Or Google, "How accurate is Kelley Blue Book?" And there are so many, literally hundreds of blogs that are telling you Kelley Blue Book is considered inflated by the experts. So, anyway, check that out and you'll see what I'm talking about. Well, thanks for listening. I hope you learned something from this video. You'll now be able to use the application with no problem at all, and you really need to check out the VIN history report I have as well because it's- it'll- it'll blow you away. , my VIN history report is just the most awesome thing. , Carfax is- is, , selling theirs for fouty four dollars and ninety nine cents and mine is only fifteen dollars and ninety nine cents. It's basically the same report. You don't have to believe me. You can go to my website. You can download the Carfax sample right from their website. I actually pulled it down and posted it here. And you could download ours from our website, and you can compare the detail that's in it. You will see that you're getting the same information from our report for fifteen dollars and ninety nine cents. for one report, as opposed to the fouty four dollars and ninety nine cents Enough said for now. Thank you for watching, and I hope you learned something.